Choosing the horses for our Journey was an excruciating task. We had coordinated with a rescue organization in Italy who had put us in contact with a horse dealer who bought horses from the Lombardia Slaughter auction. For me buying a horse means agreeing to commit to care for the remainder of its natural life. I seldom sell a horse, in order to buy one of my horses you have to be able to give them a better life than I can, and that’s pretty hard to do. So buying three horses I knew I would have to sell was difficult enough but not buying horses destined to die if I didn’t buy was worse. So I tried to stay focused on what we needed in a horse to successfully complete our trip. Although almost any horse can walk 20 to 25 kilometers in a day. Not every horse can do that every day for six months. We needed horses we could get along with and horses that would get along with other horses on our journey. Training wasn’t as important as disposition and considering we were beginning in February a good strong constitution was also very important. At least that’s what I told myself until I met Clyde.

Olivia picked Clyde out from the herd from the fence. She spent the next thirty minutes trying to catch him which didn’t make a very good first impression with me. Once she’d managed to get a halter on him and get him where I could take a good look at him I immediately said “NO!” Olivia went about brushing and cleaning him as if she didn’t hear me and I left her to look at some of the other horses. When I returned the discussion began. Olivia was certain we had to buy Clyde, he was young, well trained and had good feet and legs. I was certain that he was too sick, too thin and too independent to begin a journey of 2000 kilometers. Olivia assured me that he has strong and would recover from his ailments and the walking 2000 kilometers was exactly what he needed to build muscle and learn to bond with humans. I assured her that I was not riding across Europe like Don Quixote on a skinny horse, after all our Journey was about neglected and abandoned horses and I didn’t want to be accused of doing a horse any harm. That was the moment I knew I had raised one of the most amazing young women I’ve ever met. With her steel blue eyes locked firmly on mine she said “if you are more concerned about what people think and might say than saving this horse you are no better than the people who sent him here! What are we showing people if we only take fat healthy horses? Isn’t it more important to show people that even sick skinny horses are valuable and worthy of respect.” It’s difficult when your children challenge your convictions. I wanted so badly to explain to her that she was young and naive and that although her motivation was pure the outcome of taking an obviously sick horse on a long journey would do more harm than good. But as I stood on the cold and the mud looking at that sorry excuse for a horse I realized she was right, if our journey failed to reach England but we saved this horse then we had not failed at all. The journey was not the important part, the important part was to share the horses’ stories. After all they were the reason we were riding and it was their story we wanted to tell. With the condition that Olivia was responsible for Clyde’s health and well being, I paid the horse dealer for three “sound” saddle horses and we began our journey.

It’s been three months and 1000 kilometers and as I predicted we have been judged harshly by some for traveling with a skinny horse. Olivia has monitored his health and treated all of his ailments along with monthly checks by veterinarians. She healed his skin which caused large patches of his hair to fall out so not only was he skinny but he looked like a baby bird that was molting its feathers. She treated his runny nose and congestion which cleared up vey quickly and after six weeks we treated both he and Lapo with some medicine provided by a veterinarian to completely clear their lungs. Finally we found the right cure for his sarcoidosis and all are gone except the one behind his ear which is currently shedding more and more each day. He has gained about 100 kilos and still needs another 50, his skin is healthy and his hair has almost grown, shed and filled all the gaps. His back and hips are still filling in and I’m sure in another month or two it will be impossible to tell he was ever anything but healthy and the only thing people will notice when they see him is the upside down heart between his two bright eyes. But for now I still find myself explaining that we are not the cause of this horse being skinny we are actually the cure. Some days it is so difficult for me to bear the criticism I just want find a nice barn to leave him in and continue without him but Olivia never falters. She is so strong in her conviction that what we are doing is the very best thing for Clyde and that it’s important for people to see a horse can recover from sickness, neglect, abuse and injury. She ignores the criticism in favor of the mounting stack of data she has compiled on him over the last three months that empirically proves walking and minimal weight bearing are very good ways to build muscle and stamina in emaciated horses.

Young Love
This morning I watched out the window as Olivia fed the horses. As always, Clyde saw her coming and trotted to meet her. Long gone are the days of him being difficult to catch. After she set out the grain she went over and caressed him gently laying her head on his shoulder so all I could see was a mix of her blonde hair and his red mane shining in the morning sun. He didn’t stop eating but gently turned into her so she was wrapped in his neck. The love, respect and admiration was unmistakeable, she is his partner and his friend. At that moment I couldn’t image our journey without Clyde. I couldn’t image anything more important or more special than providing this horse with the opportunity to heal his body and his mind and providing my daughter with the opportunity to live her convictions. As with everything there will be a cost for both Olivia and Clyde. Olivia will have to leave Clyde behind. Her summer of love will come to an end and they will both have to move on with their lives. Olivia will begin the University and Clyde will have a new home with someone who will reap the benefits of all the love and effort she has placed in him. Clyde will lose the first person he has ever trusted, while his body and mind will be healed but his heart will be broken. But as with all young love that ends too soon, someone or something will fill the gap and ease the pain and they will both go on with their lives better for the experience.

Tomorrow Olivia and Clyde will saddle up and ride again sharing a bond of trust and respect only dreamed of by many. Tomorrow we will meet new people and tell the story once again but tomorrow I won’t consider what these people may think, tomorrow I will trust the convictions of my daughter and those bright eyes of Clyde and be grateful for getting the opportunity to take a skinny horse across Europe.

Ferdinand in ’86, image supplied by Journey Europe

Ferdinand in ’86
In 1986 on the first Saturday in May a stunning young chestnut named Ferdinand was ridden to victory by legendary jockey Bill Shoemaker. He also won at Santa Catalina, Malibu and Preakness that year and was voted horse of the year. His lifetime earning is reported at $3,778,000 and in 2002 at 19 years of age he was sent to slaughter because he could no longer breed. Today there is a Ferdinand fee that owners can voluntarily pay that provides money to non-profit groups that re-home ex-racehorses. Each year organizers ensure the Kentucky Derby is a well publicized well attended event that will have a $217 million dollar economic impact in Louisville alone yet they rely on non-profit and charity groups to protect the horses that make this possible.

Journey Europe’s Champions!
I don’t want to enter into the “evils” of horse racing debate or even the horse slaughter debate. I just want to know if an animal can generate $3 million dollars of income and not be guaranteed a quality life or respectful death what does it take? When the band goes home and the losers of today’s derby head home. What will happen to them? Whether they win or lose they will have been the catalyst behind $217 million dollars in revenue yet they are afforded no protection. No one can expect a business owner to lose money and horses that lose races aren’t good for business. Like most problems there is no single simple solution but there are many things that can be done to help. As always I feel education is the most important first step, challenging people to consider the life of the horses. Ask yourself when, as a society we use horses for entertainment, sport, business and pleasure what is our responsibility to protect them? At what point does good business become greed and exploitation? Then act on your thoughts, write the racing commission, write your congressmen, support a local rescue organization, write a blog, post to Facebook or ride a horse across Europe. Together we can restore the value of horses and end the mentality that they are disposable.

What happened to the guy riding the other horse?
We have three horses. Two to ride and one to carry the pack. Sometimes our hosts drive our pack to the next station so one of the horses can just walk along without carrying any weight. It’s has been particularly helpful in allowing Clyde to build muscle without burning too many calories. It’s also a great opportunity to make a joke about what happens to people who mess with Cowgirls ; )

Isn’t it too hard for the horses to walk all the way to England?
Horses are designed to walk. Their bodies and their minds function best when they are allowed to move and function in a group. Three horses walking together, eating together and sleeping together is much easier than those same three horses standing in a box, separated by bars and only being allowed to move for work.

How old are you?
Really! Really? We are riding horses across Europe, traveling like modern day vagabonds never knowing where we’re going, where we will sleep on horses we bought from the butcher and the most important question is my age.

Shouldn’t your horses be a little fatter?
We use a body conditioning score designed by the University of Kentucky to ensure our horses are in good working condition. Because long slow walking burns fat not sugar our horses do not carry a lot of extra fat on their bodies. Clyde was underweight when we began and he has built muscle and stored fat letting us know that our conditioning program is working. Lapo and Lollipop were overweight to begin with and have lost weight and added muscle, again exactly what we wanted to see happen. As the days warm and the availability of green grass increases we should see all of the horses begin to store a little extra fat. Most horses we have seen have been overfed and under exercised which has caused people to think if a horse isn’t obese it’s too thin. Like humans being to fat or to thin is not good for your overall health so although you may like the looks of a “fleshy” horse you just may be killing them with kindness.

Who’s paying for this?

We are not sponsored or affiliated with anyone. We have been generously hosted and supported by friends, strangers and family but at the end of the day all costs are our responsibility. We are not a non-profit or charitable organization we are just two cowgirls who felt the need to do something for the animals we love so much. However anyone can support Journey Europe by making a donation on our website here, by hosting us at your farm or ranch, by sharing our story on Facebook, Twitter or any other social media, by contacting the press or simply by letting us know you’re out there and believe horses deserve better than they are getting in our disposable society.

No really, how old are you and shouldn’t Olivia be in school?
Olivia is finished with High School and will be attending New Mexico State University this fall. Her desire is to become an Equine Veterinarian. And I’m old enough to be Olivia’s mother.

Why aren’t you riding in the US?
We are trying to gain attention for horses and two American cowgirls riding alongside the road in Europe certainly gets people’s attention. We want people to ask questions and become involved in the conversations regarding horses lives, deaths and their role in today’s society. We could have ridden across Africa or Asia but Europe fit our time and distance needs the best. Besides most of Europe was built using horses and horses were commonly ridden across Europe in the past.

Where’s your husband and how did you get him to let you leave for six months?
He’s at home feeding the horses, walking the dogs and paying the bills. He supported our journey from the start and would never consider keeping us from doing something we are this passionate about. Journey Europe has required an amazing level of commitment and sacrifice from our entire family. Although it is Olivia and me riding it really takes our entire family, a lot of friends and a few strangers to make this journey possible.

Seriously, how old are you and do you dye your hair?
Honestly! I don’t dye my hair, my oldest daughter will be twenty in June and I’m old enough to vote and drive.
What happens to the horses at the end of the ride?
All three horses will be sold to pre-approved homes and the proceeds given to horse charities throughout the EU. You can read their stories and learn how to add one of these lovely boys to your herd here.

Do you have a job?
Yes, my occupation is Cowgirl. I make my living working with, training, riding, driving and rehabilitating horses. I own twenty horses and live on a ranch in New Mexico with them my husband, two children and four dogs.

So you’re forty……?
Okay, I will be forty five in July! I have lied about my age for years but on this trip I met a woman who explained that the only thing better than a forty year old woman is a fifty year old woman so in July I will be half way between good and perfect.

Over the past month the “boys” as we refer to them collectively have become a very close little family. Clyde has taken the position of leader and Lapo is second in command which frequently left Dalì as the odd man out. Although Clyde and Lapo are a dynamic duo the three did enjoy a close and amiable relationship. The past week Lapo has taken on the role as pack horse which has given me a opportunity to spend long hours with Dalì and really grow to appreciate him. After a long week of riding we were blessed with the opportunity to spend our rest day at Hewenhof Pferdehof with Steffi Klotz and Walter Wiesheu. Once again we were treated with kindness, generosity, warm showers and soft beds. Hewenhof is a wonderful place for horses and humans alike. The horses live in herds with unlimited access to the outdoors and plenty of shelter from the elements.Their herd includes horses from six months to thirty years old, of numerous breeds, sizes and colors.Walking amid happy healthy horses I was greeted with interest, ears forward, sniffing noses and completely without fear. This is the life I would like for more horses and it gives me such hope to see it’s not only possible but alive and well here in Germany.

One of the things I’ve learned through the years is to take all opportunities seriously. Some of my most memorable experiences have begun as jokes or silly ideas. So when Steffi half heartedly asked if we would consider leaving Dalî with her, I gave it some real thought. Olivia and I discussed the benefits for Dalì staying or continuing. We discussed the affect change would have on our herd, on us and on the story we are telling. Dalì was our ambassador for older horses and losing his “voice” was not something to be taken lightly. After some discussion we came to the conclusion it would be nearly impossible to find a better environment for Dalì to spend his golden years. We slept on our decision and this morning over breakfast we decided to have Steffi ride Dalì for a few hours today and I would ride Lollipop, a horse Steffi was willing to give us in exchange.

Steffi was instantly in love and as we rode she explained that she was hoping Dalì would help her daughter recover some confidence after an unfortunate accident. Olivia just beamed with approval at the thought of Dalì getting the love of a little girl. It was clear Dalì had found his forever home and somehow it had been our job to get him from Italy to a small village in Germany. Lollipop is a slightly larger version of Clyde which gives us a nearly matched set of red horses. He is four, full of life, a little fractious but has a soft eye and an easy spirit. He is young and has a strong enough personality to integrate into our little herd. We will have more information and conditioning reports on our sweet new addition soon but tonight we are just so grateful and a little sad to say Dalì has a new home. We miss him already but I’m certain a life filled with the love of little girls is heaven on earth for an old horse.

Next up Lapo
Temperament: Lapo is a big lug of a horse with very little regard for personal space. He has a happy spirit with an easily distracted mind. We’ve made tremendous strides in building focus and building confidence but still have a lot of work to do. His back and hips are becoming stronger and straighter allowing him to move much more freely with his head in a more natural position. His strength, stamina and muscle tone have improved greatly but despite appearances he is still the weakest of the three horses.
Heart Rate: 40
Respiration: Normal
Capillary Refill: Slow with poor gum color
Neck: Fat covering top with spongy fat on sides. Neck meets body flat and smoothly.
Withers: Fat covered but no longer round.
Shoulder: Some extra fat which blends smoothly into body.
Ribs: Not visible with fat filling but not covering them.
Back: Flat with slight positive crease
Tail: Round with spongy fat on side but no fat on top.
Overall Score: 5.5

Finally Dalì
Temperament: Sweet old horse with a stubborn streak under saddle and a soft spot for Olivia. He has suffered our only mishap which doesn’t really constituent an injury but we did manage to rub a significant amount of hair off his hips. We did some very unattractive trimming to the pack pad to improve the fit and hopefully that will prevent further rubbing. Some days our pack is moved by car and on those days Olivia rides Dalì and we pony Clyde, this is when Dalì’s strength and character really shine. He may be a little older but he certainly doesn’t lack energy or personality.
Heart Rate: 40
Respiration: Normal
Capillary refill: Good
Neck: Squishy fat on top with sides covered in fat. Neck meets body flat with a slight bit of extra fat in front of shoulder.
Withers: Round with extra fat covering them.
Shoulders: Some extra fat behind shoulder but blends into body flatly.
Ribs: Not visible, filled with fat and covered in some fat
Back: Flat
Tail: Hard fat on sides with a small amount of fat on top.
Overall Score 7

We’ll take these…

Bienvenue, Welcome, Come on in! After a long but very pleasant flight from JFK to Milan and only a minor delay collecting our baggage we headed for customs and the exit with our luggage piled on two carts. I walked with my head held high, managed my best 10,000 watt smile and walked right past the custom agent and out the door. I secretly prayed under my breath Liv would just follow but there was no way I was turning around to look. As we went through the giant door marked “Nothing to Declare” Olivia’s cart hit me from behind and I knew all was well. It was official, Journey Europe was in Europe, saddles, pack, tack and supplies were all present and accounted for. The journey of 1,700 miles had made its first step. Our second step involved getting ourselves and our luggage to the hotel, or at least that’s what I thought was next. As we waited for our ride in the cool morning fog I tried to tune my mind to the sounds of Italy. The overhead announcements were in both Italian and English and I understood enough that I thought after a few days I would have enough vocabulary to manage some rudimentary communications. By the time the horses were ready, Liv and I should be able to ask for directions and get a meal I reassured myself. Until then, “Our contacts spoke English and we would be in good hands,” was the pleasant thought going through my mind as two Italian men drove up with big smiles in a very small car.
Adventure, this is an adventure not a vacation. I have a feeling this may become the catch phrase for Journey Europe because I caught myself repeating it a lot yesterday. Not surprisingly the two men with big smiles did not speak English and the car was not the agreed upon truck but in a feat of packing that was nearly magical they managed to stuff all our luggage into their car and leave one seat available for Liv and I to share. As the nice Italian man stood pointing at the open door, encouraging us in Italian and broken English to wedge ourselves like sorority sisters into a VW bug, I muttered to Livi, “it’s an adventure” and we proceeded to fold ourselves into cowgirl origami that culminated with both of us sharing a single seat in the back of a European sedan. We left the airport and headed into the Italian countryside with the window fogging, making it was hard to see anything but how precariously small the roads were and how dangerously close the trucks were. Thanks to the protection of a gaggle of guardian angels we arrived safely at the farm where the horses were kept. Somewhere along the way there had been several phone calls and it was decided that we should go to the farm first to store our saddles then to our hotel, another change in plans and the beginning of another adventure.

We’ll take these…
Since we were at the farm it seemed that picking the horses was the most logical step. Apparently the word jet lag doesn’t translate into Italian. After spending several hours looking over the available horses I narrowed the field to three and we called someone to translate the business part of the deal. The horses must have passports, microchips, Coggins, and farrier work and that was all supposed to be included in the deal. After several phone handoffs I was informed I had exceeded my budget by almost double. As the jet lag reached a crescendo and my sprained ankle became nearly unbearable I asked to be taken to our hotel and we would decide on horses tomorrow. Our host Walter was happy to take us to the hotel but first we must go have lunch with his Mother. My sense of adventure was waning and I could feel the urge to whine rising as I tried to explain that we really weren’t hungry we just really wanted to go to our hotel. Walter called his Mama and I didn’t need a translator to understand that she was not accepting no for an answer so off we headed to have a quick lunch with Mom. If you’ve ever been to Italy or know an Italian family you know there is no such thing as a quick meal. As time marched on and Olivia and I began to wilt like flowers in the sun another decision was made on our behalf. We would stay with Walters Mother Amelia and we could decide on horses tomorrow. Without any energy left to protest we graciously accepted the warm and generous offer from our host. Without delay we were tucked in soft comfortable beds to get some much needed sleep.

Our adoptive family

Our adoptive family
Traveling across Europe on horseback is only part of the adventure. Meeting people, sharing in their lives, staying in their homes and enjoying their company is the other part.We’ve only just arrived and already the kindness and generosity we’ve been shown has touched our hearts, lifted our spirits and, thanks to Amelia, filled our bellies. I’m beginning to think the hardest part of the Journey will not be the riding but rather the leaving. Tomorrow we are planning to move to a B&B where we will train the horses and get them ready. I wouldn’t bet on things going according to plan but I would bet that whatever happens it will be an adventure.

Mustang Livi does Grand Central Station

After months of planning and several unexpected changes, Olivia and I left the ranch on time with an obscene amount of baggage and as many warm wishes. But as fate would have it there was one more change in future. Once we reached Atlanta we experienced, as so many travelers before us, unexpected delays. So when we arrived in JFK our flight to Milan had already departed. Some would have considered this a misstep, we opted to consider it another adventure. Thanks to the support skills of my amazing husband, our hotel was booked and all arrangements had been made for us to comfortably overnight in New York.

This morning we awoke refreshed and headed for the subway on the complimentary shuttle, nice planning Barney. The gentlemen from the front desk rode along with us to the subway and provided all the necessary information on getting a metro card and the correct line to take to get into the city. Armed with a sense of adventure and a wealth of local advice, we headed into Manhattan. I have to admit I was a little apprehensive heading into the city on the subway dressed in our full cowgirl attire with the only piece of luggage we had not checked, a sleeping bag in a stuff sack. Since its four pounds had made the difference of an overweight bag, it seemed easy enough to carry it at the time. Had I known we would be spending the night in New York I may have chosen something more useful, but these are the things that make the difference between a trip and an adventure. So, off we went cowboy hats, boots, sleeping bag like country mice into the city. Much to our surprise and pleasure we were treated with kindness and friendship throughout our tour of Manhattan. The transit authority workers were friendly and helpful as we tried to locate the platform, the trains were well kept, and everyone had a pleasant comment about our hats. Instead of being a target for harassment and crime because we stuck out like a sore thumb, we were treated with the kindness and respect one would show family.

Our shadows on the 9/11 Memorial

Our shadows on the 9/11 Memorial.

Our first stop was the 9/11 memorial. It was a sobering way to start the day. Like most Americans, I remember every moment of that fateful morning. Time has eased the pain and the trauma has healed, but the memories remain vivid and clear. As Livi and I walked around the memorial and talked I was struck by the realization that although she is old enough to remember 9/11 she does not remember life in a pre-9/11 world. The only world she knows involves body scanners, taking your shoes off, and nothing sharper than nail clippers in order to fly. She has been raised in a county immersed in war and controlled by fear. Life on the ranch is so far removed from the harsh realities that so many Americans have faced over the past years, that it is easy to lose sight of what we lost that day. Today I was reminded of the price of freedom.

Haven’t seen them shine like that since they came out of the box!

As we continued our tour throughout Manhattan, New Yorkers continued to impress us with their friendly greetings and thorough knowledge of their beloved city. I think every school child in New York must be forced to memorize the entire subway map and all points of interest in heir city. Everyone we met was willing and able to give us detailed directions, and in each case the directions were spot on. Coming from Santa Fe, where the standard answer for the question “how do I get there from here?” Is “you can’t get there from here.” I was amazed. We spent half the day walking our way across Manhattan visiting grand central station, Wall Street, Times Square, and spots in between. Finally we worked our way back to JFK where our final exchange with a local was as pleasant as our first. Our boots were treated to the best shoe shine one can imagine. With the care and precision that comes from practicing a trade for fifty years, our boots were cleaned and restored while we were entertained with stories and kindness. As we boarded our flight to Milan, our boots were shining as brightly as my opinion of New York. In the morning we will touch down in Italy and Journey Europe will be underway, but today was most certainly the beginning of our adventure.

Big Joe’s First Ride

Big Joe was also rescued in a snow bank and he too had been abandoned in mountains and was nearly starved. Joe’s starvation caused serious long term digestive issues which after three years of treatment have healed to a very manageable point. He does have some special dietary needs and requires a little extra monitoring but aside from that, is a normal happy healthy productive member of the herd. Like many his weaknesses have built strength in character and he is one of the most thoughtful and expressive horses I have ever had the privilege to be around. Having a job and helping humans gives him such joy. He is the first to the gate if he sees a halter and always volunteers to go wherever we are going and does whatever we want. He is the horse you teach people to ride on and they get off feeling like they are expert riders because he has gone out of his way to do what he knows is right no matter how poorly they ask. Every barn should have a horse like Joe and every barn wants a horse like Joe so it was very difficult for me to admit it was time for Joe to move on to his forever home. I had such high standards for who could care for Joe’s special needs that I really didn’t think he would ever leave the ranch and that was fine with me. But I do know, no matter how well I care for them and how important they are to me the best thing for them is finding them a home where they are the top priority and one of two or three horses not one of twenty. A friend of mine recommended a friend of hers adopt Joe. It was a perfect match. She had the skills and knowledge to care for his special needs and he had the skills and knowledge to care for her needs. Although she is a true horse professional and has been around horses for most of her life she has developed some fear issues as a result of some accidents. Now fear is a dangerous thing around horses because it makes horses dangerous. It is impossible to safely work around horses in a state of fear. That being said horses are big strong animals that have the ability to hurt, maim and kill us so some fear is good. Keeping a balance between respectful fear and terror is so important if you want to be around horses. So again it will be the horse who is the teacher and the provider in this relationship. She will learn to trust again because Joe is trustworthy and her fears will subside as Joe proves ride after ride that he has no intentions of causing her any harm. In return she will care for his needs and provide him a with a safe loving environment and together they will both be able to move forward. So with some sadness but greater joy I sent Joe on to his forever home where he will have love, care and most importantly for him a job that he is good at.

Finally we needed some entertainment. Ray Wiley Hubbard played in Albuquerque for the first time in recent memory. He is an amazing musician, poet, performer and human. His songs are dark and musing while his character is full of light and life. Sitting in the theater listening to his stories about his life and the challenges he’s faced and how by facing his fears he has been able to live a quality life. He quoted some self help book he read that said “Fear is the dragon that guards our most precious treasures”. My mind instantly

went to Big Joe, Snort and Popcorn each of them had dealt with fear in their own way and each of them had showed me the treasure that lay behind that fear once the dragon was removed. Now each of them is helping a human slay dragons of fear and I know there will be treasures on the other side. Throughout planing for Journey Europe people have asked me if I’m afraid or what am I most afraid of and they always seemed surprised when I say I’m not afraid. I have concerns and there will be events that occur that scare me but I no longer need a dragon to guard my treasures thanks to the countless horses who have taught me to live without fear. The other great line of the evening from Ray was “the days my gratitude exceeds my expectations are good days”. Watching Olivia and Melissa ride Popcorn and Snort was a good day and I continue to be so grateful for the opportunities horses have brought into my life and so with that in mind I’m going to continue planning Journey Europe remembering to set my gratitude higher than my expectations and to leave the dragons in the fairy tales where they belong.

Karen, Liv and Ray Wylie Hubbard after the show.

Sunday morning in Marfa, Texas…blue skies and fresh snow made for a cold but beautiful beginning to the end of Filipe’s ride across the US. As we rode along the highway enjoying friendship and times with good horses we were continually reminded that most of the horses that travel this road are on a one way journey to Mexican slaughter plants. Semi load after semi load passed by stuffed with horses that were no different from the very horses we were riding.  Four years earlier I bought Gunsmoke, one of the horses being ridden, at a slaughter auction in New Mexico. Had he not come home with me that day he would have been in one of those trailers instead of proudly carrying Daryl to the border. I was struck with sadness as I watched Gunny making that trip to Presidio knowing that it was only by the hands of destiny that he would get to come back to the ranch with his new best friend Texas. Texas was Filipe’s horse. He was donated to him in Wyoming by a rancher and he has traveled diligently alongside Bruisier and Frenchie all the way to Texas. But apparently his name was an omen of where his trip would end. Not all horses are made for all jobs and traveling another 8,000 miles was not in Texas’ future. But again fate was good to Felipe and I was able to find him a beautiful American Mustang to replace Texas. Taos is an adorable palomino mustang from the Taos herd in New Mexico. He is a pint sized version of Frenchie and will make the trip to Brazil with dignity and honor. Already the three of them have buddied up and are getting along well. Texas returned to New Mexico with me where he and Gunny have become best friends and he is enjoying a simpler life on the ranch.

Monday we arrived in Presidio as the sun was setting over the West Texas desert. Taking pictures in front of the “Welcome to Presidio” sign it seemed almost scenic and beautiful. Unfortunately you don’t have to look far to see the pain and desperation of humans and animals on the border. The war on drugs, the fiasco that is our immigration laws and the transport and handling of livestock all combine to make Presidio a very sad and depressing place. We didn’t linger long after our photos and headed back to Marfa to get the horses a night’s rest and fill their bellies before the long drive back to New Mexico. After the horses were tended to we all met for one last dinner to share a meal and stories from the trail. Everyone had ridden for their own reasons and to support their own causes but in the end it was about the horses and respect. Respect for each other, respect for animals, respect for our planet and respect for our heritage. Filipe had ridden from Canada to Mexico for his own reasons but along the way he has shown us this country is full of goodness of humanity. In the midst of so much sadness and despair pressed hard against the Mexican border this group of rag tag cowboys that Filipe has collected along the way proved to ourselves and the world that where there is kindness and humanity there is hope.

Leaving Marfa proved to be as hard as getting there. Not because of the weather but I knew I was leaving Filipe and Emma behind, if not forever, for a very long time. The friendships we made with Neta,Daryl, Trent, Deborah, Gary and Margo will last a lifetime and Filipe and Emma will always be considered family but life moves forward and for now that means moving away. Filipe is headed to Brazil and Olivia and I are headed to Ireland, each of us on a Journey with horses but each of us on a path of discovery all our own. Many have said human history has been written on the back of the horse, for me, my history is written through their eyes and on their hearts. As we rolled out of Marfa the under the big West Texas sky the iPod played Guy Clark’s “Desperado’s Waiting For a Train”, I wiped away my last tear as the BNSF train rolled past headed for the border.

So, two Cowgirls go to Ireland… No it’s not the beginning of a joke, it’s the beginning of an epic adventure, taken on by a mother daughter cowgirl team in order to raise awareness of the plight of horses worldwide.
So bookmark this page right now because you’re going to want to follow this dynamic duo as they make their way across Europe covering over 1,500 miles in five months crossing the Irish Sea, the English Channel, the Swiss Alps and finally ending up on the Mediterranean cost out side Rome. They will be making friends and causing trouble as only two cowgirls can do all along the way and documenting their adventures in writing and on video.
The adventure begins February 2013 so make sure to spread the word and check in often as there will be plenty of updates as these rambunctious cowgirls make final preparations for “JOURNEY EUROPE”.

To visit the blog of the Journey Europe Duo, click here